Monthly Archives: February 2013

Extremely Thin Elegant Charm Tasting Piaget Altiplano Ultimate 910p Automatic Watch Rose Gold

As an indispensable gene of Piaget Piaget, this outstanding design of ultra-thin also creates a creative style that the brand can control freely, becoming one of the most representative design features in the brand. At the 1957 Basel Watch Fair, the brand launched a 9P manual-winding movement with a thickness of only 2 millimeters, which surprised four people and became a milestone in the history of ultra-thin watchmaking. In 2018, the brand once again focused on the theme of ultra-thin. At the highly anticipated Geneva Fine Jewellery & Watch Salon, the 4.3-mm-thick Altiplano Ultimate 910P automatic watch was launched. Combined to reproduce the brand’s extraordinary and unique aesthetic design. This watch is available in white and rose gold. Here we take a look at the low-key luxury rose gold model as an example: (watch model: G0A43120)

Dial movement in one

   The new watch continues the classic design of the series, perfectly integrating the dial, movement and case, which not only exceeds the limit thickness of the watch, but also presents the ultimate and unique design aesthetics through the clever dial layout. The eccentric hour, minute and small seconds dial is located at 10 o’clock on the watch, showing the basic function of time indication. At 7 o’clock, a moving display window is added to add practical functions to the watch. It is sighing that it is extremely thin, and you can also appreciate the look of the movement through the dial, making this new model more exquisite and mechanical precision.
Thinner thickness

   The diameter of this watch is 41 mm. Due to the fusion of the movement and the case, the thickness of the watch is only 4.3 mm, which is extremely thin. The case is polished and polished, showing smooth lines and full arcs, which is very beautiful. Compared with platinum, rose gold is more gentle and luxurious. Incorporating an elegant, subtle men’s charm into it, echoing the slim and light shape and the simple disk design, highlighting the gentle and elegant style of men’s wearers.
22K Gold Peripheral Rotor with Black PVD Coating

   At this point, you may ask, isn’t it an automatic watch? Where is its pendulum? On the outer edge of the disk, there is a black PVD-coated 22K gold oscillating weight specially created by the brand. Because it is set on the periphery, it does not increase the thickness of the movement, achieving the overall slim effect. The oscillating weight is cast in gold, which brings perfect mechanical properties. At the same time, it also adds weight to the movement’s oscillating weight, ensuring its stability and solidity, and showing excellent winding performance. Through the movement of the 910P pattern, you can feel that the oscillating weight rotates with gravity. Don’t have any fun.
Real time display of the rest of the watch

   The 18K rose gold crown is located on one side of the watch. The Piaget logo ‘P’ is engraved on it, and the crown is decorated with a non-slip texture.

   It is equipped with a 910P self-winding mechanical movement, and parts such as the main splint embedded in the case are polished and sandblasted; the balance wheel is alternately retouched with solar radiation or ring-shaped corrugated matte polishing. The bridge is chamfered and polished with a sun-radiated matte finish, and the hollow beauty perfectly showcases the dynamic beauty of the movement. The movement is assembled from 238 parts (case and movement), with a vibration frequency of 21,600 times / hour (3 Hz), and can provide a power reserve of about 50 hours.

   The black alligator leather strap is decorated with bamboo patterns and grey stitching, which is more elegant. With pin buckle, wearing is more convenient.

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate 910P Automatic Rose Gold

Summary: In the field of horology, making small and thin is the embodiment of a brand’s excellent watchmaking skills. The Altiplano Ultimate 910P automatic watch is another successful challenge for Piaget in the field of slimness. The combination of low-key luxury rose gold material and unique oscillating weight design gives people a bright impression. If you like this watch, you may wish to pay more attention.

Definition Of Modern Advanced Craft Glashütte Original Cal. 36

Glassutti original GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL launched the ‘then’ new generation of basic movement Cal. 100 in 2005, not only this one is still in service, even its predecessor Cal. 39 There are still a lot of new products launched. In this case, in 2016 they launched a new Cal. 36, which can’t help but start thinking about GO’s strategy for the basic movement.

GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL has launched a new basic movement Cal. 36 in 2016. As early as two years ago in 2014, they just launched the Cal. 37 chronograph movement, but because the chronograph styles displayed in the GO center in the past were mostly equipped with a chronograph module from Cal. 39, there was no native basic chronograph movement ( Eccentric display of the Pano series is not counted), so the motivation for the development of Cal. 37 is easy to understand, but in 2005 they launched the ‘then’ new generation of basic movement Cal. 100, now not only this still In service, even its predecessor Cal. 39 has a large number of new products continued to be launched, and in this case, the Cal. 36 is launched, which can’t help but start thinking about what GO’s strategy for the basic movement is.

Cal. 36 self-winding / hour, minute, second / diameter 32.20mm / thickness 4.45mm / 27 stone / vibration frequency 28,800vph / two-way self-winding, non-clamping silicon hairspring, speed screw balance, gooseneck fine adjustment , Bayonet seat movement fixing ring

When the Cal. 100 was launched, we expected it to gradually replace Cal. 39. However, this result has not happened in ten years. On the one hand, the 39-3X with a timing module is still the main force of the brand’s timing style. There are also many simple three-pin models that continue to use the 39th movement. In the end, not only did the 100 not replace the 39, but the two lines have been parallel for ten years. Comparing the three-handed models equipped with 39 and 100, to be honest we cannot easily find a decisive factor to distinguish when to use which movement, the functions of the two are almost completely interoperable except for the chronograph, and some specifications The difference does not seem to be clearly reflected in the style, but after the launch of Cal. 36, when comparing the three generations of design before and after, we can see some clues.

Cal. 36 changed from Cal. 100’s double barrel to single barrel, and increased the space inside the barrel by increasing the barrel diameter and reducing the core of the barrel.

Cal. 36 is basically developing in a direction of stronger performance but simpler design, that is, higher productivity and well-preparedness. This is the first wave of self-made movements in the 2000s, and it was launched after the 2010s. Common characteristics of homemade movements. Looking back at Cal. 100, we will find that some parts of its design are actually relatively unfriendly to production and maintenance. For example, dual barrels, although the practice of improving power reserve and even adjusting torque is extremely common in the watchmaking industry, but strictly speaking, its structure is not as streamlined as a single barrel, and the probability of failure will theoretically higher.

A silicon hairspring was introduced into the movement. At the same time, they abandoned the fast and slow needles and switched to a card-free fine adjustment system. There are four hex screws on the balance ring for adjustment.

Even if the number of barrels is somewhat controversial, the function of resetting the seconds hand will undoubtedly greatly increase the complexity of the movement. Although it is a charming and easy-to-use feature of the Cal. 100, How this for a basic movement adds to the difficulty of assembly and subsequent warranty, and even affects production. These problems have been solved one by one in Cal. 36, and even a cardless fine-tuning system and silicon hairspring have been replaced. It can be seen from this that productivity and maintenance should be the priority tasks in the development of this movement. From this point of view, Cal. 36 is likely to replace 100 or even 39 in production practice.
100 hours energy storage in a single barrel
Cal. 36’s energy storage nearly doubled from Cal. 100’s 55 hours to 100 hours in one breath. This has exceeded the current mainstream three-day chain, and even more powerful is that it also comes from the dual barrel of Cal. 100. It is changed to a single barrel, and the inner space of the barrel is increased by increasing the diameter of the barrel and reducing the axis of the barrel, so as to accommodate longer barrels and achieve longer energy storage. In fact, the Cal. 37 chronograph movement launched earlier also uses a single barrel to achieve 70 hours of power. On the one hand, it can be seen that GO has accumulated a certain Know-How in this regard, and on the other hand, it can be seen Currently they have a policy on the number of barrels.
Silicon hairspring and cardless adjustment
Another core technological change of Cal. 36 is the introduction of silicon hairsprings. As a member of the Swatch Group, it seems to be a matter of time before the introduction of silicon hairsprings, but GO had not yet adopted it when Cal. 37 was launched earlier, and it was not officially introduced until this time. With the silicon hairspring, the adjustment of the movement became simpler. At the same time, they abandoned the fast and slow needles and switched to a card-free fine adjustment system. There are four hex screws on the balance ring for adjustment. The brand’s signature gooseneck trimmer should be used here to adjust the balance of the balance wheel, just like in the Cal. 37.

Many of Cal. 36’s designs are oriented towards easy production and maintenance. Maybe it can replace Cal. 39 and 100 in the future.

Highly simplified winding structure
The part of the winding mechanism Cal. 36 is also a two-way automatic winding, but its system is neither a Magic Lever nor a switching wheel, but a set of mechanisms similar to the switching wheel but with a simpler structure. The advantage is that the parts are more Less, relatively more stable, in line with Cal. 36 design philosophy. Another interesting point is that the large scroll of the movement has no non-return parts. The mechanism to prevent the barrel from reversing is to directly use the automatic winding gear train (connected to the automatic disc all the way) to lock the large scroll. This approach is quite new, and the point is that the construction of the entire power system is even simpler.

Senator Excellence 18K rose gold material / 36-01 self-winding movement / hour, minute, second display Sapphire crystal, transparent back cover / water resistance 50 meters / diameter 40mm

Movement fixing like lens ring
In addition, the movement has some detailed design that is worth mentioning. For example, the movement between the movement and the case uses a mechanism similar to a camera lens ring. After the movement is inserted into the case, it must be turned about half a turn Positioning, so that the movement has been fixed to a certain degree before the screw is locked. Although the screw must still be locked, there is always a layer of protection. As mentioned earlier, Cal. 36 cancels the Cal. 100’s second hand reset function, leaving only the stop-seconds function, which makes the structure simpler. Perhaps because of this, the plywood parts have also returned to the brand’s 3/4 plywood (Cal One more splint for 100, not a single 3/4).

Senator Excellence Panorama Date 18K rose gold material / 36-03 self-winding movement / hour, minute, second, large date display / sapphire crystal, transparent case back / waterproof 50 meters / diameter 40mm

Installation of complex modules
The original specification of Cal. 36 does not have date display, which is different from Cal. 100 (large date is the basic specification of 100). 2016 BASELWORLD Cal. 36 was mounted on the new Senator Excellence when it was announced. At that time, there was only a simple three-pin style. Until the second half of the year, the big date 36-03 and the big date plus moon phase 36- 04, the prelude to the installation of complex modules in the movement. Many of Cal. 36’s designs are oriented towards easy production and maintenance. Maybe in time, Cal. 39 and 100 can be replaced, allowing GO to officially enter the era of a single basic movement.

Senator Excellence Panorama Date Moon Phase 18K rose gold material / 36-04 self-winding movement / hour, minute, second, large date display / moon phase display / sapphire crystal, transparent bottom cover / water resistance 50 meters / diameter 40mm- —