Monthly Archives: April 2015

The Editor-in-chief Best Buys (On)

01 Lange DATOGRAPH UP / DOWN watch
    Basic data:
    Platinum case, 41 mm in diameter and 13.1 mm thick, using the Lange-manufactured L951.6 manual winding movement with stop-seconds and accurate jump-minute flyback timing. The large calendar display is at 12 o’clock and the power reserve display is at 6 Point position, power reserve 60 hours. Lange can be said to be a model of German watchmaking, regardless of brand culture, historical heritage and production technology. Although it was silent during the Cold War, after the reunification of the two Germans, Lange once again smashed the altarpiece with deep accumulation. Once Lange’s flagship series Lange1 watch was launched, it became the focus of attention. The eccentric dial and large calendar have undoubtedly become the ‘identity tag’ of this classic series. Compared to the unique dial layout of lange1, this DATOGRAPH UP / DOWN watch is quite satisfactory. The large calendar window, small seconds dial, and 30-minute counter are arranged in a triangular arrangement, and the dial is neat and clear. Although generally similar to ordinary chronographs, the large calendar at 12 o’clock reveals Lange’s historical lineage invisibly. Compared with the old DATOGRAPH watch, the DATOGRAPH UP / DOWN watch has a power reserve display at 6 o’clock, so that the wearer can clearly understand how much time is left for 60 hours of operation. The watch also has a flyback function that stops or resets the ongoing time measurement at the touch of a button. In addition, it is worth mentioning that the L951.6 movement used in Lange DATOGRAPH UP / DOWN watches can be described as a combination of functionality and viewing. The start and stop of the timing function is controlled by the column wheel, which ensures a smooth operation feel, while the hand-carved pendulum splint and the gem shaft with a gold sleeve make the eyes full of feast. Coupled with the iconic gooseneck fine-tuning and strong German style, this watch has become a work of art.
    02 Athens Marine Observatory Watch
    Basic data:
    18K rose gold, titanium with gold bezel or titanium / stainless steel, 45mm diameter. The official Swiss observatory is certified C.O.S.C. The power reserve is displayed at 12 o’clock, and the small seconds and circular calendar window are displayed at 6 o’clock. It adopts UN-118 self-winding movement with a power reserve of about 60 hours and a water resistance of 200 meters. 18K rose gold high temperature enamel dial style limited to 350 pieces. From the brand logo of Athens alone, it is not difficult to see the origin of Athens watches and nautical. Since the 19th century, Athens has been involved in sailing. In the era without GPS navigation, people can only use the astronomical clock to calculate the heading, and an error of one second per day will cause a deviation of 463 meters. Only an accurate chart can keep the captain and his crew on accurate voyages at all times. This Athenian aerospace watch has a diameter of 45 mm, which conforms to the trend of large watches. The 60-hour power reserve indicator is at 12 o’clock. The small seconds dial at the 6 o’clock calendar window jacket, and the elegant white enamel dial are from Donzé Cadrans, the enamel dial expert and the latest member of the Athens Group. The red UN118 in the small seconds dial has not only become a touch of embellishment on the white dial, but also shows that this watch has an extraordinary ‘core’. New materials are one of the development trends of watches in the future. New materials such as silicon, titanium and rhodium have stepped into people’s field of vision one after another. Athens is unwilling to lag behind in the development of new materials. In the UN118 movement, a variety of new materials have been incorporated. The escapement of this movement is made of a synthetic material of artificial diamond and silicon-Diamon Sil. It is light and hard and requires no lubrication. In addition, a silicon hairspring ensures precise travel time. . Some people say that the movement in Athens is one of the most beautiful in the altarpiece. This is not an exaggeration. Through the back we can see the interesting automatic rotor of the UN118 movement. Its shape is like a large anchor, and the brand logo is separated from the left and right. It can be said that there are two small anchors hanging on a large anchor. The indissoluble bond with the sea can be described as interesting.

    03 Amy Ingenious Series Calendar Retrograde Moon Phase Watch
    Basic data:
    43mm stainless steel case, dial with sunburst drawing, calendar retrograde hand at 10 o’clock, day hand at 6 o’clock, power reserve hand at 2 o’clock, using Amy’s self-winding ML192 automatic movement, power reserve 52 Water-resistant to 50 meters. From parts manufacturers to movement-made brands, Amy has completed an identity change in just a few decades. In this time period alone, compared with those watch brands that have been around for more than 100 years, Amy is undoubtedly a young brand. However, youth is not a disadvantage. Compared with many watchmaking brands with historical heritage, youth is its advantage. Bold innovation, forward-looking design, without the constraints of historical baggage, everything comes easily. From Amy’s Bentao and ingenious series watches, we can easily see the vitality brought by youth. This calendar retrograde moon phase watch is from the Le Méridien ingenious series with a 43 mm case size. The entire watch has no tedious decoration. The dial with silk satin sun pattern and slightly raised hour markers is simple and layered. The retrograde calendar and power reserve display are located at 10 o’clock and 2 o’clock, respectively. At 6 o’clock, the moon phase display is equipped with a weekday indicator. In addition to the hour and minute hands, the five hands are arranged in a regular manner. Looks avant-garde. Most of the original craftsman watches use manual winding movements, although from the process of manual winding, you can experience the interaction and interaction between people and the watch, and you can make the watch thinner. But once you forget to wind, it will cause a lot of trouble. This retrograde moon phase watch uses Amy’s self-winding ML192 self-winding movement. The vertical-brushed and fish-scale-polished movement is exquisite, and the 52-hour power reserve allows it to spend the weekend in the safe. It will not affect your work on Monday.

    04 Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Navy Deep-Dive Model Watch
    Basic data:
    Titanium case, diameter 42 mm, thickness 17.3 mm, unidirectional rotating pure ceramic luminous bezel, patented ‘crown lock protection system’ and automatic helium discharge valve built into the crown. Uses the ETA 7750 self-winding movement, which is certified by the Swiss Observatory. The pointer and the surface are inlaid with 21 self-luminous miniature gas lamps with a waterproof depth of 600 meters.

    The Pol watch, derived from railway timing, undoubtedly left an indelible stroke in the history of American railway operations. While working for the U.S. Railways, the founder of the brand, Mr. Ball, not only ensured the accurate operation of at least 175,000 miles of railway lines, but also brought his own watch observation system and the chronological guidelines uniformly followed by American watchmakers Mexico and Canada have made significant contributions to both the watch and rail industries. In recent years, while inheriting the tradition, Bolt watched the wild nature. Bolt, which was endorsed by famous explorers and divers, continued to venture into extreme environments and challenge nature. This dive chronograph watch is 42 mm in diameter and its large locked crown makes this watch look quite powerful. This engineer hydrocarbon series navy deep dive watch is the world’s first diving chronograph with a built-in helium discharge valve in the crown. This design can prevent the surface from being deformed under the influence of water pressure, thereby further improving the waterproof performance. In addition, the watch has two outstanding features. One is that the hour markers and hands on the dial are inlaid with Bol’s signature 3H self-luminous miniature gas lamp. Second, there are two grooves on the edge of the case below the timing ring, which can drain the moisture stuck between the components and prevent the water from corroding the components. Here you can use a little trick, usually 30 minutes at 12 o’clock, small seconds at 9 o’clock, 12 hours at 6 o’clock watches are often related to the ETA7750 movement, we can take advantage of this feature , Quickly identify the watch movement model. Of course, the engineer hydrocarbon series navy deep dive watch is no exception. Inside the case is a ETA7750 movement certified by the Swiss Observatory.

Jacques Dro: Ingenuity And Heritage

Recently, the documentary film ‘I am repairing cultural relics in the Forbidden City’ is being screened. This film looks into the depths of the ancient Forbidden City with a younger and more plain perspective. Through the historical origins of cultural relic restoration, it closely displays the ‘resurrection’ technology of rare treasures, the daily life of cultural relic restorers and the philosophy of self-cultivation. The New Year’s film of the New Year brings a clear stream and has been well received by many audiences. In the film, teacher Wang Jin, the watch repairer, has conquered a large number of audiences because of his gentleness and unique personality.
   Mr. Wang Jin has a magical relationship with Jacques Dro. In 2011, Jacques Dro transported one of the brand’s most famous automatic dolls, the ‘writer’, to China for exhibition. Although the protection measures were taken, the road was bumpy. Damaged, it was Mr. Wang Jin who helped Jacques Detroit to save the field. It was repaired all night the night before the event and half a day in the morning. Eventually, the ‘writer’ wrote ‘Jaquet Droz In China (Jacques Luo in China) ‘.

Mr. Wang Jin assisted in repairing the Jacques Dero automatic doll ‘writer’

   The film focuses on the ‘unknown person’, a story of time, which is unknown to the Capricorn. They are such a group of people who grind a knife in 3 years and repair a painting in 18 years … 12 top restorationists of the Forbidden City tell stories of affection with cultural relics, and they repair it day after day. In the completion of the cultural relics, the continuation of history and the fulfillment of their own, the great nation’s ingenuity and inheritance spirit of ‘choose one thing and last oneself’ are touching. It also coincides with Jacques DeRood’s strong support for the masterpieces of historical watches and clocks, and the brand’s enduring craftsman spirit coincides. To this end, Jacques Delo specially held this film media screening in Shanghai on January 3, 2017. I present this ‘ingenuity’ work for everyone to experience Jacques Dro’s heritage in the past three centuries, inherited from a variety of classical watch aesthetics, supplemented by exquisite techniques and rich enthusiasm to create beautiful and charming timepieces Ingenuity.

“ I am repairing cultural relics in the Forbidden City ” movie poster 2016.Jacques de Rodriguez funded the restoration of antique timepieces in Napoleon

   In 1783, as the first well-known brand in the West to open the door of the Forbidden City, Jacques Droe represented the most advanced watchmaking technology in the Western world and came to the palace of the Qing Dynasty. With his creations of clockwork and breathtaking The automatic puppets and exquisite timekeeping birds won the favor of Emperor Qianlong. Since then, Jacques Dro has forged an indissoluble bond with China.

   According to a rough estimate (existing archives), Jacques Dro sold about 650 products from 1781 to 1810, two-thirds of which were sold to China. The products include watches, snuff bottles, perfume bottles and shrines. All products are made into For sale. Today, there are still dozens of Jacques de Ronaldo’s historical boutiques in the Forbidden City of Beijing. After research, Jacques de Lo is also the brand with the most watch collection in the Forbidden City.

   The Qianlong emperor’s favorite was this bronzed gold-plated writer’s clock. Its independent mechanism was made by the Jacques Droy family. At that time, foreign missionaries tried everything to satisfy the Qianlong emperor’s desire for ingenuity. The special feature of this clock is that before starting, the European gentleman dipped his ink brush in the ink and turned on the switch. The gentleman would neatly write eight words: ‘Eight Directions, Nine Earths King’ . After getting the writer’s clock, the Emperor Qianlong’s love for robots was out of control.

   Exactly how many Jacques de Lo clocks entered the Qing Palace can not be counted at all, but Jacques de Lo’s masterpieces of many shining palaces have become more gorgeous and noble under the condensing of time.

Jacques Dross Bell Warbler Clock

   Very rare and exquisite gold-plated brass enamel birdcage clock. There is a pair of songbirds in the birdcage. It is always equipped with a central second hand and can report hours and quarter clocks. Below is a fountain composed of 12 streams of water. Singing 6 tunes at the hour, the bird movement: brass, double-layer design, sesame chain transmission mechanism, large barrel can provide long-lasting power, dual-arm flying wing adjuster, with worm and gear transmission mechanism, drive The column is equipped with 16 shafts, 12 of which are used for the same number of sound tubes, 4 for loudspeakers and active songbirds, songbirds sing in the form of duets, and the tunes are automatically changed.

Gold-plated brass enamel bird sound bottle-type clock

   It is 21cm high, 8.4cm wide and 4.7cm thick. The enamel paintings on the four sides of the base are burned on the gold-plated copper bottom tire. The theme is garden landscape. Unfortunately, the enamel paintings on the front and one side are now missing. The picture seen in the picture is in the process of restoration according to the patterns on the other two sides. , Painted with paint. In other parts of the table, different patterns of flower patterns are painted on the blue enamel, such as flower vines, string flowers, and cluster flowers. Dial bezel inlaid with pearls, hour and minute hands are Louis XV-style hands.

Gold-plated brass beaded enamel bottle clock

   It is 15.5cm high, 6.5cm wide and 4.5cm thick. Above the dial is a white-stone balance. The back of the belly of the bottle is inlaid with pearls and green stones into an oval opening, and the bird’s standing branch is arranged in the opening. Gold-plated copper trunk, painted copper pieces as leaves, millet beads concatenated into flowers, colorful birds standing on branches. After winding, the bird turned around, wobbled its tail, and opened its mouth to sing. Open the bottom and you can see the mirror interlayer inside. This timepiece is decorated in a unique style, with exquisite craftsmanship.

Gold-plated brass enamel pocket watch

   It is 5.7 cm in diameter and 2 cm thick. The case is 18k gold. The back of the watch is decorated with enamel paintings, depicting the intimate scene of mother and child. The front and back edges of the case are inlaid with large, small, and two circles of pearls. White enamel dial, hour and minute hands are typical hollow arrow-shaped hands. A dense curly pattern is engraved on the movement’s splint, and the side of the movement is engraved with a famous model: Jaquet Droz London. The hairspring is engraved with Jacques de Loire’s unique clover motif. The watch comes with the original enamel key.
   There are countless similar masterpieces from the Jacques Dro Palace Museum. Time is boundless, but the charm of the clock is inscribed with the precise markings of human beings in an instant, invisible to the shadows and traces of human beings, to freeze the history of history and to stop the dust of time. From ancient glorious Europe to a mysterious eastern country far away, Jacques Dro has used these more ancient and evergreen charms to bury a legend of subtle fragrance in the old days of the past. Mixin.

   When excellent craftsmanship is combined with exquisite aesthetics, this is Jacques Droe, which freezes time with ingenuity and heritage. In the past, in the present, and in the future, it gives the most affectionate record of human time.